These layer lines are not perfect in these prints but now it looks like a Z-axis issue as it is an entire layer bulge, not a wavy in-out pattern on every layer. Right away I was getting much much better print quality than I had been getting recently from the mini afterburner (recently – Note when I first assembled my voron 0.1 I had great quality but unfortunately I couldn’t get it back to that state in the past few weeks). Stealthchop_threshold: 0 # Set to 0 for spreadcycle, avoid using stealthchop on extruder #hold_current: 0.3 # for OMC 14HR07-1004VRN rated at 1A #run_current: 0.5 # for OMC 14HR07-1004VRN rated at 1A Pressure_advance: 0.025 # See tuning pressure advance doc #control: pid # Do PID calibration after initial checks Sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F # Adjust for your hotend thermistor. #gear_ratio: 75:10 # For Mini Afterburner Rotation_distance: 4.637 # See calibrating rotation_distance on extruders doc I’ve copied the relevant section from my printer.cfg here to speed things up! Make sure to comment out the gear ratio line that was probably present in your original v0 config! ĭir_pin: PB4 # Add ! if moving opposite directionįull_steps_per_rotation: 200 # Set to 200 for LDO 1.8° stepper motor, and set to 400 for OMC(StepperOnline) 0.9° stepper motor Use their defaults as a starting point – they work well! Updating the firmware is straightforward because LDO provides a list of Klipper settings for the extruder and stepper. It still embodies some of the original mini afterburner feel but without the hard to get right extruder. The result is a surprisingly neat and compact looking extruder / hot end assembly. It should stick out about 7mm from the top of the extruder and this located into the Orbiter V2.0. In addition you will need some PTFE tube. Don’t forget to take the time to cable tie those wires in place while you still have easy access. I was a bit worried it wouldn’t look very neat but actually printed in all black it looks like a lean mean extruding machine! The hardest part as always is clamping the belts and getting the right tension again. You literally put the whole thing together with 11 bolts. Assembly of the tool head is exponentially easier than the mini afterburner. The modified version can be found in the pull request here and will hopefully get merged soon. I also took the liberty of modelling a cable support and including that in pull request as the offset angle on the orbiter motor mounts prohibit the use of the original one (Grey part on the back of the motor).įortunately, this is a 2-minute fix in Fusion 360 and then back on the printer (after re-assembling the mini ab again). Off I went and printed the parts only to find that the stock bolt length provided with the Dragonfly hot end was not long enough. It does require you to print a new carriage but that isn’t a particularly big hurdle. Interestingly there is already a modified tool head for the Orbiter V2.0 curtesy of KurioHonoo ( Github).
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